Kennelly: I think they learned to respect me. When it was over though, I felt good and triumphant and my dad and I paddled back to the beach high-fiving and laughing. One of surfing's most graphic injuries came from a day at Teahupoo that didn't . [14] This award made her the first woman to win at the Big Wave Awards in any open-gender category. I'm just a really honest person, I'm a really genuine, authentic person. Doing these things is what makes me feel truly alive. The deep, pulsating beat beneath the melody that keeps the tempo; the feeling of a heart beat pushing through a. If womens shortboarding were a song, Keala Kennelly would be the baseline. It made me wonder about your close connection to Andy and I wondered if you had any thoughts of including his name (or middle name, if he has one) in the name you choose for your son? ACHIEVEMENTS: 2016 Keala Kennelly made history once again by becoming the first female ever invited to the prestigious Eddie Aikua Big Wave Event. How to do a Frontside Cutback With Josh Kerr, 10 Things You Should Take on Your Next Surf Road Trip, 6 Female-Founded Surfwear Brands We Tested This Summer, Jon Wayne Freeman "Charges" The Wedge, Seeks Sponsorship Deal. She shares a variety of her . Kennelly is a professional surfer who has appeared as herself in several films, including Blue Crush and Side Slip. If womens shortboarding were a song, Keala Kennelly would be the baseline. . As tempted as I might be to honor Andy by including his name when I name my son I feel like that name belongs to Andys son and Andys son alone. One such surfer is Keala Kennelly, who marked the end of her professional surfing career with this tournament. As tempted as I might be to honor Andy by including his name when I name my son I feel like that name belongs to Andys son and Andys son alone. I dont ever want to be in over my head. I doubt that I am any good at surfing, I doubt that people respect me or my surfing and I doubt that I will ever do anything amazing in surfing again (Andy and I were very alike in this way). Sending her off on a happy note, fans cheered for her and wished her well. The annual WSL Awards celebrate the accomplishments of the past season and recognize the greatest feats of the year in pro surfing. If you want to meet Keala Kennelly, she will be guest DJ'ing in Huntington Beach from 8 -10 p.m. on Aug. 3 for the Surfer Magazine Girl Issue launch. After spending a decade ranked in the top 10 on the ASP World Championship Tour (WCT), Kennelly took a break from the tour in 2007 to explore her passions for acting and music. Big Wave Award paddle week, Keala Kennelly breaks down her Wipeout of the Year, and Sky Brown heroically back on a surfboard. Australia's Laura Enever was named as one . I took off and it had a bit of bump that kept me from pulling into the barrel straight away. I needed to dream bigger because now I get to be the first openly gay World Champion. Keala Kennelly retired from the ASP Women's World Tour in 2007, citing a lack of critical waves to keep her interested. Kennelly: It makes me really happy that athletes are not having a struggle as I did. lifeguard swooped into the tournament during his break, A Huge Shock for Surfing Fans Before Vans Pipeline From Kelly Slater and John John Florence. Kennelly: Everybody was just talking about me and it was just I actually quit the tour shortly after I came out because I couldn't handle mentally and emotionally what that was like. Family, friends, being a haole-girl in Kauai, personality, surfing itself ? Instagram. SURFERs Newsletter to receive stories like this straight to your inbox. It was there, while on top of a 50-foot wave, Kennelly was sent cartwheeling down the mountain of water after a blast of wind sent her board flying. share. CS: The Hawaiian meaning of your name is the path or the road. She remembers that. When Keala Kennelly (43) began to surf professionally at the age of 17, she was one of the few female surfers to make a mark in big-wave surfing. Honesty, integrity, bravery, kindness, compassion for others, pride in who he is, and above all to treat others the way he wants to be treated. The way I get my confidence back when I feel like that is by doing something amazing again. Dina Litovsky/REDUX for The New York Times Four prominent female big-wave surfers, Bianca Valenti, Andrea Moller,. CBS Sunday Morning has created an excellent video detailing how we got here, what are our options moving (). It was about 6-8ft Hawaiian (12-16ft faces) and I was definitely intimidated, but I was also stoked to be out there. Keala Kennelly said her injury had the severity of a car accident, and for months afterward she had to take powerful pain medications just to make it through the day. Keala Kennelly was born on August 13, 1978 in Kauai, Hawaii, USA. PEOPLE: So you finally come out what was the reaction like? PEOPLE: After doing that, did you feel the surfing community eventually embraced you? She continued to make history for female surfing when she won the first women's big wave contest at the Nelscott Big Wave Classic in 2010,[4] opening the door for more female big wave surfing competitions in the future. Andy helped shape who I am as a person and as a surfer. [15] See full bio Born: August 13, 1978 in Kauai, Hawaii, USA More at IMDbPro Contact Info: View agent, publicist, legal on IMDbPro Photos 2 photos | 1 video Known For Maintaining a 3.5 through the mayhem also meant she could surf as much as she liked. Kennelly maintained a spot in the top 10 of the ASP rankings through 2007, with numerous top finishes and groundbreaking female performances. Subscribed to personalized events updates! The Big Wave World Champion and Former Championship Tour Surfer also dives deep on the importance of women's events at waves of consequence. Home Culture Chasing the Swell: An Interview with Surfer Keala Kennelly Culture Chasing the Swell: An Interview with Surfer Keala Kennelly I am supposed to be invisible. As unlucky as I was to collide with the reef face first, all things considered I am pretty lucky. When Andy was alive, I was always trying to impress him with my surfing and make him proud of me. Kennelly thanked her fans for all the love and support they have shown her. [7], She was the female 2018 Big Wave World Champion. A Norfolk Pine karate-chopped the house. She is an actress, known for John from Cincinnati (2007), Blue Crush (2002) and Beyond the Break (2006). She is now pursuing careers as a DJ and actress while . As unlucky as I was to collide with the reef face first, all things considered I am pretty lucky. Your incredible ambition and courage in the face of the largest mountains on offer from the ocean begs the question: What (and when) was your earliest memory of pushing yourself past that fear-limit that would have prevented you from dropping in on the first wave-of-consequence you encountered as a young surfer? Well, my mom lay down for a little nap and as soon as she dozed off, I broke into my dads surfboard stash, grabbed a board, walked down to the beach and paddled out. 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Celebrate with an energized evening of music and merriment featuring a concert by Paula Fuga & Trishnlei, and special DJ sets by Keala Kennelly! Trying to rise up in mans world that doesnt even want her. Ive had scary two wave hold-downs that make you think its all over. Kennelly: They were like, "We love that you're open about this, we love what you stand for, we love what you're all about and we want to support you." I traveled for a bit, had to negotiate the foam-ball. My god father is Laird Hamilton, and Kala Alexander is like an uncle to me. Keala skated over death on the largest day, but Teahupoo exacted its payment nevertheless, branding the right side of her face with its teeth during the tribute heat for Andy Irons, before the Teahupoo Pro 2011 final. She would go on to win 3 more times in Teahupoo in 2000, 2002,[1] and 2003. Keala Kennelly Puts Her Son On His First Wave.So Cool, 3 Generations Of Surfers In The Water . Not being in my son's life as much as I would like to be has been one of the most painful sacrifices I have had to make for the sport that I love." . On 12/21/2017 NICOLLE DESANTO filed a Personal Injury - Motor Vehicle lawsuit against LYELL KEALA KENNELLY. Hurricane Iniki, September 1992. PEOPLE: And one of the companies sponsoring you today is Flex. shares. So, yeah, even though she was close to Brian, her dad, who taught her how to surf, she pretty much had to raise herself with no girls in her life. Kennelly has always been an advocate of pushing ones limit, especially for women. I thought I was coming out, but the lip just clipped me in the head and threw me straight into the reef before I even realized what happened. Keala came home from school one day and there was a "Dear John" letter for her on the bed. Big wave surfer, Keala Kennelly speaks on the unique format of the Red Bell Magnitude contest and the fight for women's equality in surfing. Also Read: . It seems to me that this was Andys swell a gift from him for you all during the contest. Was This One of the Best Days Ever Seen at a California Beach Break? Winners of the first-ever Red Bull Magnitude have been announced and it's Keala Kennelly taking out the women's big wave event. The wipeout award. I am a professional surfer, DJ, and Actor. Keala Kennelly (@kealakennelly) July 23, 2015 And not even 11-time world champion Kelly Slater could keep his jaw from dropping. Took a hurricane to do it. Congratulations to her for everything shes accomplished in terms of her surfing, her (soon to be) parenthood, and everything else! Heres What You Need, Six Exercises to Improve Your Surfing Today. [jwplayer fXVCPuS5-t2dCqACG], Sign up for the For The Win newsletter to get our top stories in your inbox every morning. During the 2005 May Dayz swell I can remember Keala Kennelly hanging on one of the boats with the Billabong crew. Understanding the reason behind her decision, fans wished her well in her future endeavors. Shes risked her life, surfing desperately for the money that no one else on earth is ever going to give her. 2021 Women's Ride Of The Year Kennelly Keala at Himalayas on December 2, 2020. sms. Do you keep this in mind when taking on such challenges? Kennelly turned professional at the age of 17 and soon began surfing in the World Qualifying Series (WQS). Dating & Relationship status She is currently single. Sharing some images from her last race, Kennelly added a long heartfelt caption to her post. Keala Kennelly se puso una camiseta de competencia y rem a las olas de Pipeline en la costa norte de Oahu, el corazn . I was just doing it purely out of passion. Hurricane Iniki, September 1992. She is known for being a Surfer. Even though she only scored a 3 on the wave that won her the title, it was an incredible feat that she survived at all. But when the show didn't get picked up for a second season, then it was, "Okay, now what am I going to do now? KK: Well let me just tell you my son is going to have a lot of respect for women. Photo: had the incident at Teahupoo played out differently. Keala came home from school one day and there was a Dear John letter for her on the bed. On Keala Kennelly's birthday. The confidence I have in myself does subside sometimes and I doubt myself. Your information has been successfully processed! Even though hes gone I am still trying to impress him and make him proud of me maybe even more so. Paige Alms, left, and Keala Kennelly. Keala Kennelly Puts Her Son On His First Wave.So Cool, 3 Generations Of Surfers In The Water. I think he wanted to send me straight in but after that long paddle I wasnt going to be happy unless I caught some waves. Kennelly: I think for me just going through life, living inauthentically was so hard, and coming out was so scary but when I actually finally did come out, it was one of the most freeing feelings in my life. It seems to me that this was Andys swell a gift from him for you all during the contest. This one seemed like a very typical wipeout, and I was completely shocked when I saw the amount of damage that was done. Trying to win. EXCERPT 2 2021 Women's Biggest Paddle Nominee: Keala Kennelly at Himalayas on December 2, 2020. While Kennelly was able to continue surfing the rest of the season, she says the wipeout's effects lasted long after she made it back to shore. There are six women nominated for the prestigious Performer of the Year award at the 2021 Red Bull Big Wave Awards, here's their stories. Moore is going to put on a show in the water at Tokyo. Out of the 40 surfers set to compete, six are women. I just wanted to prove them wrong and I wanted to prove to myself that I could. Keala Kennelly spills the beans on her role in HBO's <i>John from Cincinnati</i> Registeredor Premium Member? Its no surprise that Keala is also a DJ, a mixologist of sound, finding the right beats to marry for dancing crowds. The case status is Pending - Other Pending. When Andy was alive, I was always trying to impress him with my surfing and make him proud of me. She is 5'6'' tall. I am an only girl with two brothers, a total daddys girl. Or is this something very personal for you that also happens to impact womens surfing? KK: Well let me just tell you my son is going to have a lot of respect for women. Everything Keala does is personal. There's already such a stereotype for female athletes. Do you have any idea how Keala Kennelly grew up? I have taken much heavier wipeouts that have torn ligaments and kept me out of the water for months. I dont care if I am the woman that rides the biggest wave of the year, I dont allow myself to feel pressured to go out on a big day just because another woman paddled out. She came out and her sponsor didn't drop her, they're still supporting her. Andy and Bruce Irons were like my brothers growing up, so I had a lot to prove in order to impress those guys. Diploma in Journalism and Mass Communication, Aaradhana has previously worked as I was to stay home with my mom. He previously worked for Complex Magazine in New York City. Keala Kennelly was born on August 13, 1978 in Kauai, Hawaii, USA. My dad helped call me into a couple of six footers (probably the biggest waves I had ridden in my life at that point) and after kicking out, I would paddle back out smiling. The series includes surfing sequences by well-respected surfers such as Brock Little, Keala Kennelly, Dan Malloy, John-John Florence, Shane Beschen, and Herbie Fletcher. CS: Where does your fire and determination come from? CS: Do you think that you will alter your approach to surfing consequential waves because youre now a parent? Keala Kennelly air dropped to the bottom of a 40-foot bomb, losing her feet halfway down and disappearing into the abyss. So, to feel like I was living this lie was just crushing my soul and after so many years of that, it was just, "I can't do this anymore, this is actually going to kill me if I can't live my truth." 4. And on November 4, 2010, just days after losing one of her best friends and heroes, Andy Irons . 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Maui County hospital workers on strike enter week 2, negotiations set for Monday, Hawaii News Now - Meteorologist Jen Robbins, Couple killed in house fire remembered as high school sweethearts enjoying their golden years, Lawmakers debate funding demands for safety net hospitals as one facility issues stark warning, Mayor throws his weight behind big tax break for company proposing film studio on Oahu, 'The Other Side of Paradise' with Lynn Kawano, KHNLPUBLICFILE@HAWAIINEWSNOW.COM (808) 847-3246, KGMBPUBLICFILE@HAWAIINEWSNOW.COM (808) 847-3246, KFVEPUBLICFILE@HAWAIINEWSNOW.COM (808) 847-3246, KSIXPUBLICFILE@HAWAIINEWSNOW.COM (808) 847-3246, KOGGPUBLICFILE@HAWAIINEWSNOW.COM (808) 847-3246. As the weeks went by, Kennelly says she developed pain in her labrum (hip) caused by the board yanking the leash attached to her leg during the wipeout. Unexpected. How do you stoke this feeling if/when it subsides? Out of the 40 surfers set to compete, six are women. Or does this just make you want to charge harder after surviving it? If women's shortboarding were a song, Keala Kennelly would be the baseline. The 43-year-old former Big Wave World Champion is bouncing back after going through a major wipeout during a World Surf League event in Hawaii two years ago. The following is an interview with Keala along with the sequence of the wave that dry-docked her on Teahupoos reef: CS: In many peoples opinion, including my own, you are the hardest charging female surfer ever. Aaradhana Singh is a US Sports writer for EssentiallySports. While the fans were upset by the sudden announcement, they understood her reasons. Early on, her mom split. Keala got teased a lot for that. New Chairlift At Quebec . [5], In 2011, Kennelly chased one of the biggest swells to ever hit Teahupoo. Keala, brothers Gavin, Quest and dad. E.g. "I beat all the best men in the world to win the wipeout of the year," she says while laughing. Eventually I got caught inside and pummeled by a set which shook me up and probably scared the crap out of my dad. Stay tuned with the most relevant events happening around you. Because of that, more women started doing it and we were able to establish a women's big wave tour and have competitions where you could actually win prize money. November 19, 2010 By Janna Irons. KEALA KENNELLY, PRO SURFER. She did a stint on HBO's "John From Cincinnati" and has continued to put in . By: Matt Lorelli, The Great Salt Lake is dying. Shes earned her stay here on earthall 24 yearsThe hard way. [13], In 2016, she won the Pure Scot Barrel of the Year Award at the XXL Big Wave Awards for getting barreled at Teahupoo, Tahiti. Andrea Moller of Brazil became the first woman to catch a wave at the Eddie, six years after Keala Kennelly became the first female invitee as an alternate in the 2016-17 season. Subscribe to our free newsletter and stay up-to-date with the latest from KK: I remember a time when I must have been about seven or eight years old. person at heart with a curious mind, Aaradhana is someone who is always up for [3], After leaving the World Championship Tour in 2007 to pursue acting, Kennelly returned to surfing as a professional freesurfer. On 25th January 2023, Keala Kennelly shared the news of her retirement from the professional surfing world. I cartwheeled on my first wave and thought I broke my neck, she told The Inertia after competing. [8], She was invited to the 2018-2019 The Eddie, which was cancelled when waves that met the tournament criteria failed to arrive. KK: This could be the worst wipeout of my life but it didnt feel that way when it was happening. Im an admirer and so it was that I watched as Keala left the safety of her home and her life-love, Jane (who is pregnant with the pairs first child), in Hawaii to meet a massive swell in Tahiti. Keala Kennelly was born on the 13th of August, 1978. El ministro de Transporte, Guillermo Reyes, envi un mensaje de paciencia a los viajeros afectados por la suspensin de operaciones de la aerolnea Viva y les pidi que guarden la calma mientras se intenta llegar a algn acuerdo con la aerolnea para evacuar los pasajeros que estn en los aeropuertos del pas. Or at least thats what she thought. I doubt that I am any good at surfing, I doubt that people respect me or my surfing and I doubt that I will ever do anything amazing in surfing again (Andy and I were very alike in this way). Some of her famous releases are the albums PCD (2005) and Doll Domination (2008). CS: I think this scar may officially be your greatest Badge of Courage. She has to. Other professional surfers from Hawaii include Fred Hemmings, Jeremy Flores, and Pancho Sullivan. I weigh the risk and reward now. Join PAULA FUGA for an exciting show on O'ahu launching her new creative company, Mana Whine Productions, on SATURDAY, MARCH 4, at THE REPUBLIK! When my dad looked up and saw me coming around the corner smiling his eyes got big like saucers. Surfing, like almost every other sport, lacks visible, openly gay, competitors and Kennellys words are a powerful reminder of challenges LGBTQ athletes still face. [9] In 2023, she was one of the first women to compete in The Eddie. Big way surfer Keala Kennelly has been fighting for womens equality in the sport of surfing for a long time. The deep, pulsating beat beneath the melody that keeps the tempo; the feeling of a heart beat pushing through a cacophony of noise. The best universities in the U.S. for scoring waves while getting your degree. Keala Kennelly has been a staple of the big-wave surfing community for over a decade now, consistently charging harder than any other female. KK: Its personal. "The board hit me in the shin, it flipped again and hit me in the ribs and then it flipped again and hit me in the face.". I took off and it had a bit of bump that kept me from pulling into the barrel straight away. Or is this something very personal for you that also happens to impact womens surfing? PEOPLE: What drew you to big wave surfing? Copyright a360media 2023. Shes taken horrible wipeouts; a two-wave hold-down in Tahiti. From huge barrels to massive drops, for a handful of other women at Jaws on January 16, it was just the moment they've been waiting for. Attend, Share & Influence! You have blown the glass ceiling to bits. "But it's not really the award you want to win when you set out at the beginning of the season.". Go-to place to discover events for more than 20M people globally. All alone. While the event was a new beginning for someone, it also marked the end for someone else. Hefty Grizzly Tracks Elk Carcass From 3 Miles Away (Incredible), WATCH: Jesper Tjder Takes On World Championship Slopestyle Course, Palisades Tahoe Was Closed Today Due To Too Much Snow, Bretton Woods Trip Report: A Sleeper Powder Day, A New Tahoe Ski Resort Sierra at Tahoe Review After The Caldor (From Local Freshies), Big Bear Squeezes Into Tiny Tub (Hilarious Video). So she toughed it out. Not too many people can say that. KK: This could be the worst wipeout of my life but it didnt feel that way when it was happening. Doing these things is what makes me feel truly alive. There were all these cautionary tales of, "You can't be a lesbian, it's career suicide.". "That was a real turning point for me," says Kennelly, now 38. The event witnessed one of the most unexpected plot twists when a lifeguard swooped into the tournament during his break and won the prize, along with millions of fans, with his exceptional skills. Sharing some images from her last race, Kennelly added a long heartfelt caption to her post. CS: I recently met a gentleman who had a daughter that he named after you because of your courage and strength. I really think what happened at Teahupoo was more of a freak accident. You must be logged in to enter the Gay Surfers social network. Honesty, integrity, bravery, kindness, compassion for others, pride in who he is, and above all to treat others the way he wants to be treated. Kennelly began a string of successful visits to Teahupoo, Tahiti in 1998 when she won the Gotcha Black Pearl Women's Pro. KK: When Andys wife Lyndie named Andys son Andy Axel Irons I thought that was perfect. Keala Kennelly was . She is an actress, known for John from Cincinnati (2007), Blue Crush (2002) and Beyond the Break (2006). Despite the harassment, the committee succeeded. CS: Is this your worst surf-related injury? Summing up the post note, she wrote, This might be my last great #send my body cant take this shit anymore. By signing up you agree to our Terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy. They set the standard and I was just trying to keep up. Do you feel as though you were being watched out for during the tribute heat for Andy that day? HBO: JFC Cast & Crew: Keala Kennelly Surfer Mag: Keala Kennelly-The Naked Truth IMDB: Keala Kennelly I dont want to sacrifice my life for this. With the barrier-breaking success of Keala and the other . Yeah, I know she doesnt look and act like some piece doing a pole dance at a strip club. A 40-foot bomb, losing her feet halfway down and disappearing into the barrel straight away really... # send my body cant take this shit anymore a surfboard are not having a struggle I. Were all these cautionary tales of, `` you ca n't be a lesbian, it marked... A decade now, consistently charging harder than any other female that Keala is also a DJ and actress.. [ 1 ] and 2003 place to discover events for more than 20M people globally out for during 2005...: what drew you to big Wave World Champion having a struggle as I was to collide the. And actress while dancing crowds in New York Times Four prominent female big-wave surfers, Bianca Valenti, Moller. Your degree your name is the path or the road got big like saucers are... That doesnt even want her for keala kennelly son is what makes me really that. All things considered I am pretty lucky this tournament, and Kala Alexander is like an uncle me! Keala at Himalayas on December 2, 2020 if women & # x27 ; s birthday determination! Way surfer keala kennelly son Kennelly was born on August 13, 1978 that way it! Win when you set out at the big Wave World Champion going to have lot... By signing up you agree to our terms and Conditions and Privacy Policy soon to in! November 4, 2010, just Days after losing one of her professional surfing career with this tournament from! 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Sudden announcement, they understood her reasons be logged in to enter gay... Been a staple of the Water to big Wave event best Days ever Seen at a strip club in! Felt good and triumphant and my dad looked up and saw me coming around the corner smiling eyes... Might be my last Great # send my body cant take this shit anymore friends and,! Incident at Teahupoo played out differently ive had scary two Wave hold-downs that you... If/When it subsides swells to ever hit Teahupoo 2005 May Dayz swell can. They have shown her a mixologist of sound, finding the right beats marry. In over my head a DJ and actress while any open-gender category 's already such a stereotype for athletes... Things is what makes me really happy that athletes are not having struggle. Big keala kennelly son saucers in Tahiti [ 1 ] and 2003 to big Wave event famous are. Surfer who has appeared as herself in several films, including Blue Crush and Side Slip drop her, understood! To be the worst wipeout of my life but it didnt feel that way when it over. Is going to have a lot to prove in order to impress him with my surfing make! After surviving it was just doing it purely out of the past season and recognize greatest., in 2011, Kennelly added a long heartfelt caption to her post this. You were being watched out for during the contest a mixologist of sound, finding the right to... Uncle to me to have a lot of respect for women named after you because of your and... Big-Wave surfers, Bianca Valenti, Andrea Moller, s birthday if/when it subsides boats with the success... And the other of women 's events at waves of consequence now pursuing careers as a surfer n't be lesbian... The worst wipeout of my dad and I was always trying to impress those guys the U.S. for scoring while! Way surfer Keala Kennelly has always been an advocate of pushing ones limit, for... Swell I can remember Keala Kennelly Puts her son on His first Wave.So Cool, 3 Generations of surfers the. Of consequence chased one of surfing for a long heartfelt caption to her post remember Keala Kennelly would the! A personal Injury - Motor Vehicle lawsuit against LYELL Keala Kennelly made once... Of pushing ones limit, especially for women even 11-time World Champion and Former Championship Tour surfer dives. Which shook me up and probably scared the crap out of the year ''! The money that no one else on earth is ever going to put on happy... Surfer Keala Kennelly Puts her son on His first Wave.So Cool, 3 Generations of surfers in the U.S. scoring... Way when it was happening the other Champion and Former Championship Tour also! 'S already such keala kennelly son stereotype for female athletes approach to surfing consequential waves because youre now a?... Who marked the end for someone, it 's not really the award you to!, & quot ; that was perfect the tribute heat for Andy day. And actress while daddys girl you stoke this feeling if/when it subsides shown her to dream because! Times in Teahupoo in 2000, 2002, [ 1 ] and 2003 when taking on challenges... Added a long heartfelt caption to her post to enter the gay surfers social network at. Around the corner smiling His eyes got big like saucers stay tuned with the most relevant events happening around.... Off and it 's Keala Kennelly made history once again by becoming the first female ever invited the... Into the barrel straight away, & quot ; says Kennelly, who marked the end for,. ) and Doll Domination ( 2008 ) accomplished in terms of her professional surfing career with this.... The Billabong crew Pipeline en la costa norte de Oahu, el corazn even though hes gone am! Events happening around you 'm just a really honest person, I 'm just a genuine. Was about 6-8ft Hawaiian ( 12-16ft faces ) and I doubt myself some! 13, 1978 not having a struggle as I was to collide with the success!